The Best Lunch Spot

Harmon’s Lunch sits along Route 26 in Falmouth, Maine. It’s not in the middle of nowhere, per se, but if you didn’t know where you were going, there’s a chance you’d drive right past it. It’s been renovated over the years--a new coat of paint, updated, brighter signage, additional parking, etc.--but that doesn’t change the fact that Harmon’s Lunch is a shack on a plot of dirt, on the side of the road.

Inside sits no more than 20 people at full capacity, and it only takes half that to make things feel crowded and for a line to start pushing its way out the door. The writer doesn’t know if that’s by design, but it’s great for business. Harmon’s either looks inviting and quick, or crowded and desirable.

It’s a family operation. The owner cooks while somebody else mans the register, taking orders. On busy days, they’ll have another body on food prep, shuffling around behind the counter, keeping things from getting too backed up. The menu’s basic: hamburgers ($2.50), cheeseburgers ($2.75), hot dog ($2.50), cheese dog ($2.75), grilled cheese ($2.50), and french fries ($2.50). They offer small and large for draft Pepsi beverages. Ice cubes are located in the lunch box next to the drinks. Use the tongs and take a couple.

Harmon’s is known for its cheeseburgers. If you get a table inside, news clippings plastering the wall will remind you of this. Before the world went online, local papers used to put out rankings, and year after year, Harmon’s would find itself somewhere in the Top 5 “best burgers” in the state. The trick: simplicity.

The patties are small, about an eighth of a pound. When an order comes in, patties are plucked from the refrigerator, pre-formed on wax paper, and slapped down on a gas grill. Rarely, if ever, are more than four patties cooked at a time. Once the first side has cooked for a minute or two, it’s flipped and a yellow square of American cheese is set on top to melt. While the burger finishes cooking through, a bun is pulled from a steamer. The bottom half is placed on a serving napkin while the inner half of the top is brushed lightly with drawn butter.

Want the full experience? Get two cheeseburgers, loaded, and spit a side of fries with someone. Loaded comes with mustard, red relish, and grilled onions. You’ll be able to fit one in each palm. If you’re starving, you may be tempted to eat both in no more than six bites. Use the french fries to pace yourself and enjoy more time with the cheeseburgers. If you’re feelin’ frisky, there’s one last secret ingredient: celery salt. There are shakers at each table. Sprinkle it on everything.